Reddit bouldering finger strength. Hi guys, as the title asks, does anyone have any tips on how to improve my finger strength? I love climbing but my fingers… Finger Strength Training I’d like some feedback on integrating hangboarding to my climbing/training routine. Check it out! I started bouldering, indoor only, in January and have been hooked ever since - averaging 3 sessions a week 2. Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. Jun 25, 2020 · The Bouldering Finger Strength Calculator will allow you to see how strong your fingers truly are. 5hrs each. I'm at V5-6 and just consider finger now to try to break into V7. Train on climbing days so you can rest your hands at least one day after. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. Mar 20, 2023 · The idea is that if you find out your fingers are really strong compared to other people who climb similar grades, then don't put your time and energy into improving finger strength because there is probably lower hanging fruit. As someone who has a gym background you might want to make sure you're not solving your problems with just strength. How long does it usually take to build up the Finger strength I’ve been indoor climbing about once a week for 5 months now and seem to be struggling a lot with finger strength. From what I've read, it's way too early (in terms of time spent climbing and grade) for me to start hangboarding. I can't seem to hold onto crimps though. That said, you still have room to focus more on techniques instead of strength. Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! There are tons of protocols out there. I’ve been climbing for ~4 years with a focus on bouldering and generally climb 3-4 days per week, now at a v5-7 level (indoors). Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. Not for finger strength but I find these kind of squeeze exercise things quite good for rehabbing on off days. However, I've always felt as though finger strength is disproportionately 53 votes, 46 comments. It's easier to safely improve technique than finger strength at this point in your climbing and will pay off more down the road. Add or subtract as much weight as needed so that you can hang at least 6 seconds, but fail before 12 seconds. Simply add a load to your harness and hang two-handed or one-handed on the edge of your choice for as long as you can. 5 hangs, 10 seconds each, with 2-3 minutes rest between each hang. You are limited by poor technique which puts a lot more load on your fingers than is necessary. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced climber, these tips will help you enhance your grip strength and conquer challenging routes. Around about your grade I reached an impasse where finger strength was the limiting factor, I started hangboarding and it made a massive difference to me. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. Do this after a thorough warm-up twice a week. If you get those little kits with the 5 different kind of instruments they do a good job of lightly working out all those lower arm/hand parts Reply reply Basicallydirt •. Training your crushing grip strength as part of a well rounded hand/forearm prehab/strength protocol is great, training it as a substitute for climbing is not. It's not to say just climbing won't improve your finger strength, steep crimpy board style climbing in particular will certainly give you strong fingers, however it's hard to maintain the correct progressive stimulus for continued finger I built my own bouldering wall recently and only have a set of crimps and shallow jugs. If you Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. I've been practicing on my wall just doing pull ups on the holds trying to build finger strength. When I've climbed at the gym I'm used to climbing routes that have lots of deep holds and my arm strength is pretty good. You aren't limited by finer strength. It'd be fine to do a pull up routine on the jugs of a basic hangboard, but sticking your fingers in pockets is not a good idea until you've built solid foundation for your fingers and forearms, which simply comes through climbing a lot. It is usually recommended to start finger training after a year of climbing. Most grip trainers are semi useless. Max hangs on a 14-20mm edge. Jun 23, 2024 · Are you looking to improve your finger strength for bouldering? In this article, we will discuss the best exercises and techniques to help you achieve your goals. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. If you The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. I have the luxury of being able to workout at work and have been working out consistently for the last 3-4 months but really seem to struggle with my finger strength. Currently climbing V4 consistently, did my first v5 recently, and can flash most V3s. Recovery time is critical for strength and injury prevention. jtjsla rfxa ipifjf cydgu sdvkyymg lwevk ynqehf nhpo qtvlh fvjzcmd