Finger strength trainer climbing reddit. Reddit's rock climbing training community.

Finger strength trainer climbing reddit. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. As someone who has a gym background you might want to make sure you're not solving your problems with just strength. This involves a hard session of fingerboard and campus board and pinch grip exercises done in a sort of superset rotation. Finger Strength Training : r/climbharder. The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. I recently got the Metolius rock rings and have been using those regularly but can’t seem to get past the 4 finger hang. Check it out! So the other posters have covered the obvious "these aren't super useful" so I'll directly answer the question of how best to use them. Nov 21, 2022 · Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing capacity, endurance, and strength-to-weight ratio. A good grip trainer works the forearm muscles and develops finger strength, keeping you safer. Jul 16, 2022 · Forearm strength and muscular endurance can help keep you injury-free while rock climbing. My forearms like they’re getting stronger but my fingers feel stagnant. Regular grip strength training can help prevent these problems. Any advice for training finger strength further? Due to my work schedule, actually climbing about once a week is pretty much the most I can do. Mar 10, 2023 · For most climbers, certainly the trained ones, finger training has tended to mean doing weighted hangs on a 20mm edge for either 7 or 10 seconds. . Feb 17, 2023 · I train climbing grip strength one day a week only. Finger injuries, elbow injuries, and injuries to the forearm flexors are common in our hobby. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. Apr 24, 2023 · Block Pulls have been a common modality for rehab (with small weights) as well as warming up at the crag (isometrics) for quite a while, but they’ve only recently been gaining attention as a staple for strength training. This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. I’d like some feedback on integrating hangboarding to my climbing/training routine. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. It is usually recommended to start finger training after a year of climbing. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. Sure maybe low volume hangboard could be beneficial and further improve your finger strength but the risk of overdue / training incorrectly isn't near as beneficial as just climbing more and learn how to effectively use it. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. That said, you still have room to focus more on techniques instead of strength. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. But most finger strength training research uses 22-25mm edges, and these edge depths, especially the 25mm, make more sense for recruitment than smaller edges. This is an INCREDIBLY simplified view of capacity, recovery, maximal gains accounting when training for climbing-- with only 3 variables instead of 10+, no discussion of the real world (life stress, work, diet, sleep), social context, strength in any other system than fingers. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. I'm at V5-6 and just consider finger now to try to break into V7. gbx lmxzr pyqnc fbqqn hhzt ywxy ugzwdd btrfe nyuqjh ate