Drag vs crimp. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), y.

Drag vs crimp. Crimp climbing, also known as crimping, is a climbing grip where your fingertips are the only thing that touches a crimp climbing hold. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), y Mar 27, 2019 · One of my all-time favourite climbing tricks is to switch between the full-crimp, half-crimp and drag whilst climbing long endurance routes on edges. This works on the simple principle that a change is as good as a rest (well, almost!) Nov 9, 2022 · Dave is strongest on front 3 drag, meaning he’s open grip dominant. That means: More force Longer time to apply force Full Crimp (Closed) The full-crimp is a powerful and aggressive grip position, that allows a climber to lock down on even the smallest of edges. Will is strongest on half crimp, meaning he’s front 3 dominant. When you move from drag into crimp and then into full crimp - you are moving about a cm or two up. The absence of the 4th finger is significant enough to warrant a separate name. Repeated use of either grip is physically taxing and can lead to serious hand and wrist injuries. Full crimp is useful for limit projects but full crimping everything is probably going to put you at a bigger risk of injury. Due to the amount of tension in your finger and hand tendons, crimping is one of the most common climbing hold types that An open drag is great for conserving energy, but it limits upward drive and reduces force production time for the same reason - your elbow just can't go that high around the hold. May 1, 2024 · Crimp Climbing 101 covers the essential techniques and training tips for using crimps. Apr 18, 2025 · 3,041 likes, 10 comments - latticetraining on April 17, 2025: "Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. Your shoulder has to work a lot harder to keep yourself engaged to your foothold. If you're going big on steep terrain, switch to a closed grip and turn that pull into a powerful push. Therefore, no one specific grip is ‘ best ’. Surely you have hit a hold open-handed and found yourself stuck. This holding technique is entirely different from full and half crimps as the length of your fingers on the hold do not form a bend in relation to the tips of your fingers resting on the edge of the hold, instead, your fingertips are the only thing on the top of Drag is usually used to describe a 3 finger open hand grip. Feb 2, 2025 · Ultimately, you should only use the half crimp and the full crimp when you need a quick boost for speed and strength. I wouldn't be too concerned with a disparity unless it's problem specific, anatomy specific, or an unnaturally large divide. #climbingtraining #latticetraining #wetrainclimbers Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. I think the best way to get better at half crimp is probably a combination of training it in the hangboard and consciously forcing yourself to half crimp . That means: More force Longer time to apply Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. Closing off that grip provides more options to apply power. Feb 9, 2020 · Open crimp: involves flexion of the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint to 90 degrees with extension of the distal interphalangeal (DIP) joint. Crimp 💥 If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger strength — it’s how you use your grip. You should note what you're doing with your scapular when you pull up into crimp positions. From the three types of crimps, when to use them, and how to improve your crimp strength. A crimp puts you in a much better position than an open hand to pull through and move off of a hold. May 10, 2022 · The drag is a more passive grip than the half-crimp, relying more on friction and tension in the main tendons and less on the supportive pulleys. Closed crimp: the PIP is in flexion (90 degrees) while the DIP is in hyperextension. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), y Oct 29, 2020 · Does wrapping your thumb over your index finger make you cringe? You may be missing out on some serious pulling I think it's definitely worth training your half crimp strength to bring it up to the same level as your full crimp. Not only do you lose a whole entire finger, but a crimp offers a lot of mechanical advantage. These types of climbing holds are usually on more advanced climbs. If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger strength — it’s how you use your grip. It involves climbers wrapping the thumb over the index fingers and curling the fingers into a smaller joint angle. Crimp holds are small holds that only have enough space for fingertips. Each uses their strength to their advantage and as a result will move slightly differently on the rock. The 5th digit (pinky) may be in this position as well, or may be in the open drag position. Using the thumb to lock the index finger onto a hold is effective, but this grip places high loads on finger joints and pulleys The least damaging and straining method of holding a crimp is by open or drag grip. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), your elbow can travel higher (increased angle) without losing contact. Someone with more of a 1039 Likes, TikTok video from Lattice Training (@lattice_training): “Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. The catch is that on really hard moves it won’t provide as much traction or stability on edges as the full or half-crimp. happojc rvwmtn xosfzx agt trhhtq tqurf eqolp vvbnph mfl elge