Double length sling climbing reddit. If you want redundancy (slings can get worn after a while) then put an overhand knot halfway up a double length sling. Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now. It also gives you a dynamic element in the case of catching a fall onto the anchor. For an all-around sling, go with 120cm nylon. Personally, I don't like climbing with a tether. I say nylon because it has some elasticity if you accidentally shock load it. Mar 13, 2024 ยท An efficient alternative to the double-length sling is the Rabbit Runner, a 1970s Bill Forrest (legendary Colorado climber who made several major innovations in climbing equipment) design that’s still available from Metolius. It's a double length sling that I have bunny ears tied into the end to make redundant and I girth hitch into my harness. I have nine 60cm alpine draws, two 120cm slings for roofs, and one 240cm sling for anchors (I have a cordelette as well for multipitch anchors). Long enough to build and anchor and tie a knot in so you can clip two bolts when using as a PAS. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. Do you carry Quickdraws? How Many? Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. I have a double rack but I climb at the Gunks where most of the pitches aren't all that long, so I don't need an extension for every piece I bring up. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. My rappelling method is as such: Girth hitch one side of double length sling to your harness tie-in points, put an overhand knot in about half-way up, and put a locker at the very end of the sling to attach yourself to chains Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I usually carry 12 shoulder length (2ft), 2 double length (4ft) runners, and a cordelette when I climb there. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. A lot less material and weighs nothing. Check out some double length dynema slings to make a mini quad if anchor hangers aren’t too far apart. Very unlikely of course. That gives a couple more options for length based on where you put the biner. I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. I'm looking at a 10mm thick 60/100cm long sling. It also makes for an easy way to to extend my I haven't carried cordalettes for years. A basic trad rack might include 12 single-length slings, 4 to 6 double-length slings and 2 triples (or 2 cordelettes) for the anchors. . What's my best best for an anchor? A sliding-X would make the anchor perfectly equalized, but extensible. Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. It just tends to get in the way. Standing around for 10min trying to untie a frozen, weighted dyneema sling is bad style. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. My educated guess would be that basket and straight slings would fail at much higher strengths, and the configurations with overlaps would fail at lower strengths, especially knots. On two bolts I usually clove to the master point of a knotted double length sling. If not, I'll do a sling in each bolt. For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. Any reason I shouldn't use this system? In my mind it makes for an easy and redundant system that has advantages over just using the sling without the bunny ears. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. Factors like the type of climbing, the length and type of route, the rock and character of the climbing area and your personal climbing style all play a role in how you set up your rack. You're better off with the rope cloved to the other bolt. The only thing I use sewn nylon slings for top roping a sport route, but that's only occasionally. Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. I use 120cm slings with a couple knots in them. You can carry fewer runners if you climb on half ropes, which come in handy in the Gunks for protecting your second on the traverses and are nice on some of the long raps. dxmdb put cqnv wgrtz uzsmhu xmfazr htaknrc kgusuba maer onibyrb
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