How to build finger strength for climbing reddit. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense.
How to build finger strength for climbing reddit. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. In the climbing community better climbers are talking to newbie climbers to focus on technique first and then on finger strength. Dec 18, 2020 · Grip strength is one of the most critical aspects that differentiates a mediocre climber from an experienced one. Apr 27, 2025 · This makes training finger strength in your fingers completely different than other parts of your body. See full list on climbing. Climbing is a mental and technical skill sport that requires regular practice and devotion, and paying attention to your finger strength is crucial if you want to climb safely. Hangboarding is also the safest way to build hand strength because you can train progressively and measurably, starting with lighter weights and gradually building a base of strength over weeks/months. The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. How climbers get STRONG fingers (3 methods) Emil Abrahamsson 255K subscribers Subscribed Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. As this is 100% right i have focused on improving technique in the past year and made a lot of gains there but here comes the question. Finger strength training consists of a lot of glides, movement based exercises, and functional training like climbing and hangboarding. Any advice from climbers with a similar story?. How to know when finger strength is holding us back? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options came_to_post_this • Why this protocol? Because it’s very time-effective and backed by science to maximize finger strength. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. As much as people hate to hear it, when it comes to grip strength in the early years of climbing, climbing is the best training for climbing. This is why training to strengthen your fingers is crucial if you want to take your climbing skills to What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. com Obviously, early on you want to take it easy because you haven't built up the foundation strength, but even pros hurt tendons. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. I think perhaps I have a fairly strong sporting / weightlifting background prior to climbing, so I had a great baseline of strength/flexibility/tension (+ even pinch grip) coming in - and have overcompensated using these at the expense of developing finger strength. umzfifxncrgkunyeehxxsyghabhgegoeyrqbglaxkpmzft