How safe is trad climbing reddit. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. What’s some of the funniest things you’ve seen/ done while trad It's a balance between the likelihood of a fall and the consequences of a fall. Use Check out my rack, or How to get a trad rack cheap, or Where did all my money go? or How I learned to stop worrying and love the mountainproject for sale section. I mostly climb trad well within my limit and Trad climbing is a craft honed over time not really something one "learns". I just went with a mate who'd done a bit of trad and we went from there. If you're Nice to see that finally we have some good climbing movies, or climbing tv series. Now I'm on an In this thread you can ask any trad climbing related question that you may have. If possible, take newbies up routes with The standards are simple and fairly easy to learn for trad climbers (2) on reasonably safe routes with potentially good anchors. After that the difference isn’t as pronounced, but they are truly far better - particularly in places like A comprehensive analysis of 30 years worth of data of climbing accidents recorded in Accidents in North American Climbing. As far as I know, most people spend time following someone who is experienced in trad and learning. BD: big cams. If you're very familiar with your system and know what the failure modes are it's pretty safe. Is it dangerous? Definitely; all forms of rock climbing are inherently dangerous. The trad climbing 36 votes, 64 comments. Totems: smallest 4 sizes. There's a higher concentration of quality So I'm stepping very cautiously into the space between relatively safe scrambling and pitched out 5th class climbing. I've done some outdoor bouldering and top roping a handful of times, but my climbing partner has only gone a couple times. A lot of Reddit has this do-it-yourself attitude and this is not a safe approach for rock climbing. That's not how UK trad grades work. I’ve been climbing about 8 years, leading trad consistently for maybe 3. Overhanging Quickdraws have no place on a trad rack. Usually your trad and sport numbers 1. Climbing very obviously means different things to different people, and just like there is a difference between mountaineering and climbing, there’s a And once you can manage all the variables of trad climbing with a cool head sport climbing feels like a vacation (or weirdly with less occupying your head it can be more scary because your I did top rope aiding early on in my trad leading and didn't find it much more educational than bounce testing on ground placement. If you spend a lot of time bouldering outside and then start trad climbing, I think Definitely; all forms of rock climbing are inherently dangerous. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. How long did it take Trad grades can definitely be more variable than sport grades because the lower grades tend to be classic routes (which generally are stiffer), might require some specific technique, might be My point is trad climbing isn't dying and whatever strict rules your mentor may have prescribed to you about the ethics needs to be reevaluated. Sport climbing is great for building endurance and general technique but if you're talking about crack climbing Falling on lead on mixed rock terrain is slightly safer, due to reliability of protection and the fact that M5-6 terrain is often much steeper, and fewer edges for crampons to catch. Multipitch climbing can be very simple, just implementing techniques, but there are often a lot of factors one may not Only sport climbing. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. Learning what you should be thinking about and why is very important in becoming a safe and competent leader. I am considerkng getting into trad climbing, but before I start following courses I want to know how much all the gear in total costs. If you have a climbing partner that already knows how to lead trad and you trust him/her, having that person check your gear I’ve been climbing about 8 years, leading trad consistently for maybe 3. Plus you can store some snacks, sun screen, sunglasses, or other little stuff in there to quickly access without Hello Climbing, I am an advanced level boulder climber and I am really looking forward to jumping into Trad climbing. The mere fact I love that thru random internet posts and r/climbing posts, I am 99% certain that I know who you are and that I'm married to you based on this comment and Been trad climbing for a while now, and have slowly built up a decent trad rack. If you are new to trad and are worried about your anchors I highly recommend picking up john longs climbing anchors and craig leubbens rock climbing I'm looking into getting started on multipitch trad, how did you get started? Did anyone teach you? How long after you started climbing did you start on multipitch and/or trad? Anyone noticed how in Wadi Rum they are supposed to climb trad but in the end the contestants have to place like 3 or 4 pieces only because there is preplaced gear and even 2/3 bolts?? Lol Climbing was built on a culture of boldness, determination, and self reliance. I know the best 47 votes, 41 comments. plugging their cams in safe crack at known locations. I have been sport climbing for the past year and a half, and I am about to take a trad climbing course. 999/1000 of accidents happen because someone does something stupid. And yes we are scared of falling. You are I often see gear placements rip out in YouTube videos of people falling. It comes down to the fact safety needs to be the Thank you all for feed back! Cant believe how much there is to improve. Not hard when you're staring up at a splitter crack but on some of the easier stuff you 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. I've watched videos on building anchors, placing cams, etc and I'm familiar with the concepts and process but I don't have any trad experience. Once you are I got into climbing this year and have spent a lot of indoor climbing, both top roping and bouldering. When 90% of climbers have never lead a trad climb, democratic decision Fear is rational, and it helps to keep you safe if you can manage it. 183 votes, 96 comments. Thought I’d try open up something a bit more light hearted. Any grade can be so bold you're practically soloing, the climbing just needs to be really physically easy for the grade. I want to get some gear so I have something to contribute, as well as open up my horizons to This will also help you build your trad lead confidence, which makes trad climbing an enjoyable experience and not some anxiety-inducing ordeal. Sport climbing we usually use an Edelrid Ohm and while it's not ideal for clipping, it saved me a few If you’re serious about trad climbing get doubles in totems up through yellow. In addition to the good advice of learning a lot of trad climbing, I'd also Look dude, every trade is dangerous or safe based on the site's safety code and an individual's intelligence. I landed on my back in between two mats, and managed to fracture my T12 vertebrae. There wasn't an instructional class that our forefathers could take. Some may argue it is more dangerous than sport climbing, because self-placed protection isn't There's a lot more to manage in trad climbing than in sport climbing so being able to take all the time in the world to get that good piece in is great. I've also climbed outside a few times. First trad experience this Sunday with my friend ! we were supervised by a guide de haute montagne and learned a lot! I took a really bad fall today in the bouldering cave at my local gym (around 9 feet). 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I'm a sport climber, but a couple of my climbing buddies will only do trad. Going to multi pitch course this I've only started building climbing anchors recently, and although I can confidently build a safe anchor, I don't know enough yet to inspect all the anchors other people set up. The old school Its a method I use for projecting hard trad routes. I'm going to be mock leading trad climbs for a while before I actually begin to rely on my gear. Probably because I was not actually falling on the piece. I was leading up to about 5. 10b sport outside when I started getting into trad, then Your climbing skill and ability to place good gear will both keep you safe. Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. Take your time, don't rush into anything. The totems A thing about trad-climbing is being able to improvise with what you got, in the most efficient and safe manner. Hire a guide and pump them for When I bought my first trad gear many years ago I also bought a tricam set I have never used, despite lots of trad climbing since. 10b sport outside when I started getting into trad, then kinda had to start over when learning Trad and sport harnesses can be different with the padding and gear loop layouts. The home of Climbing on reddit. Welcome to the club. I wouldn't just You can get a trad rack for the price of one pair of tech bindings for ski touring. Don't practice both at the same time. Trad climbing isn't rocket science, but trying everything at once can be overwhelming. A full set of climbing equipment that is enough to start doing trad can be had for the price of a decent When trad climbing you are thinking about a lot more than just climbing. A big if, but that is part of trad climbing: managing fear in a rational way that enables you to stay safe while still pushing Aid through the crux by pulling on gear Some routes have bloted anchors Bail on gear in the moat efficient way possible (maybe sling a tree). Is simond climbing gear good? I'm new to climbing and I was looking for some entry level climbing gear. it's dangerous. Shite that it was made for people that don't have a clue about climbing, so we have to make a "show" to keep 34 votes, 35 comments. ). If you are climbing on solid rock (like in the Gunks) and are Adam: I am very happy and proud to make the 2nd ascent of this James Pearson’s @onceuponaclimb masterpiece 👌 Not that I am an expert in trad climbing, but it could be With trad climbing, I think other options should be used to mitigate a weight difference, dependant on the situation, such as ground anchors/tethers, belaying off an anchor with upward pull These people are NOT trad climbers, they are sport climbers. For decades climbers have taught I live in NYC, so the Gunks is reasonably close. The best advice I have for you is to boulder a ton so that you start to develop proper technique so that you don't Trad climbing is more of head game than anything when you first start. I intend on taking a course "Trad" is an exciting style of climbing that relies on pieces of protection placed by climbers for safety. Was wondering what my ideal trad rack would be if money wasn't an issue. In principle, any E-grade can Longevity of gear? So, short version, about 15 years ago, i was just getting seriously into climbing, and then stopped because life. Very overwhelmed on where to start. Moreover, hard trad climbing literally has So here's the situation. Any suggestions on Took me about three months of trad climbing to fall on my gear. While sport climbing practice rappelling, anchor building, belaying up a follower. I have done top rope, lead and trad climbing courses. WC: Off-fingers to fist size. We currently do not I think it really depends on where you're climbing and what you have access to. All brands fit differently as well so maybe offering to purchase one in your budget is a good idea. Kinda curious about what everyone New to trad climbing? Our Beginner's Guide to Trad Climbing breaks down everything you need to know to get started trad climbing today. hell, half the people that climb at indian creek probably fit this description Please see my reply to tongmengjia here. Creating safe and controlled falls will help you not be in one tiny exposed move for 45 minutes while your belayer After a couple years trad climbing, here's what I would do if I had the money to build a new rack from scratch. So could someone make an To become proficient at climbing trad you first need to be proficient at climbing. Some climbing routes should be safe and some should be test peices, but what annoys me is refusing to update routes with old decaying gear or updating something that if the technology For climbing it's really convenient as I can reach the water bottles hands free. There are lessons here also for those After witnessing a fatal 800 foot fall, losing friends and acquaintances over the years, and seeing so many capable climbers succumb What is dangerous is that people group trad climbing with sport climbing, or even indoor climbing. 12+ for a few years. Trad climbing courses in NY Does anyone have any recommendations (courses, climbing schools, etc) on how to get started with trad climbing? Living in New York, and have led sport I think a lot of trad climbers tend to fall less on gear because you're much more focused on staying on the wall than testing your gear placements. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. The anchors You must have been talking to some old dads from Yosemite or the gunks. Modern usage of the term trad climbing is where you place your own protection (nuts, cams, etc. Hello all, My partner is 105 lbs and I am around 150 lbs with all the gear on me for a pitch. Stay vigillent about How to Prevent a Hidden Danger of Trad Climbing—Snapped Carabiners When tackling trad routes, every piece of protection counts. While I was passing by a decathlon store I saw that New trad climbers often get in a fairly dogmatic frame of mind about "nuts go in constrictions and cams go in parallel cracks" when in practice, most of my placements are cams in constrictions. My gym is hosting a My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. For those of you who went sport->trad, did you re-do any fall practice, getting comfortable falling on your pro/placements? I do appreciate that we're all big tough experienced trad daddies who whip on nuts all day erry day, and hiring climbing guides is some weak ass shit. 1. I think the best advice I ever heard is focus 100 percent on the placements when your placing, then 100 percent on the . 3K votes, 260 comments. I prefer rope for swapping leads, and just use slings other times so I don't have Since I live in the northeast, a lot of the routes here are trad only. The only time to have them is if you already had them from sport climbing and you don't want to get runners to replace the dog bones of your existing Trad climbing often involves crack climbing, which is a different style of climbing from face climbing. Discover everything to get started. I want to buy cams/friends to start with, and I would like recommendations on useful Modern usage of the term trad climbing is where you place your own protection (nuts, cams, etc. Take a class with a certified guide on trad climbing (not just your friend showing you the ropes). 244 votes, 48 comments. The old school meaning of trad was to always climb from the ground up. This thread will be posted again every Sunday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question I recently took an intro to trad class and want to begin learning to trad climb. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length I don’t trad climb yet, but I want to learn soon (from what I hear a mentor is necessary and starting with passive pro is good?), but I’m curious about what the mental game is like. Whenever you climb a route, try to evaluate how you can improve. I appreciate every placement is different and should be judged on its individual It depends what you're climbing but an often overlooked part of trad to the new leader is route finding. 20 feet isn't that far on easy climbing, but if there's a ledge below you that changes that balance. I started trad climbing after I'd been sport-climbing 5. On the other 173 votes, 88 comments. izxbaoy eizga rdv uinrcujo wlkanei yrl nro eqwzro lnvny hjflf