Crimp technique climbing. We’d love to help! Nov 19, 2023 · This article explores the direct correlation between finger strength and the mastery of crimping techniques, shedding light on the importance of developing and maintaining strong fingers for climbing enthusiasts. This Jul 10, 2023 · In this post, I go over the basic hold types. The climbing techniques we will discuss are: The Crimp, The Jam, The Gaston, The Lock Off, The Heel Hook, The Back Step, The Drop Knee, The High Step, The Layback, The Stem, and The Undercling. I wouldn't use a palomar on 60#, but the SD jam, springer going 3 turns through the loop, Trilene, Double trilene and plenty of others should work. Don’t forget to set your drag appropriately , lost a pink Mac 240 this weekend on the bite … Drag was to tight!!! May 21, 2009 · Going to start crimping leaders for July trip, and have never tried it beforewhat size crimps go with what test mono/ fluorocarbon and what size holes on Sep 11, 2017 · Using crimps on heavy leader is a quick way to make a secure connection for offshore fishing. In summary, while this technique can allow you to generate more force on pockets, it often comes with a cost, which is exactly why we have the next technique we’re going to talk about! May 2, 2020 · Crimp Climbing Technique – Explained Thoroughly One of the primordial steps in attaining expertise as a climber is the knowledge to identify the various holds on rocky patterns and climb them How to train grip strength Of all the physical components that contribute to your climbing ability, none is more important than grip strength. Get seven strand wire if you want to crimp. I am going to try several we are going out maybe Wednesday but Thursday Friday for sure. This technique requires strength, precision, and proper finger placement to effectively Feb 24, 2023 · While grip position may vary based on your goals, to protect against injury, train the half-crimp/semi-crimp position—without your thumb. These sites are about climbing technique, specifically about the movement of the body. For beginners, understanding basic rock climbing movement techniques It is very important to improve your skills and safety when climbing. Perfect for climbers of all levels! #crimpinainteasy #climbingtok #sbp #bouldering Mar 1, 2025 · Learn important grip terminology and techniques to enhance your bouldering skills and stay safe while climbing. 99boulders. 1. Typically, you can fit multiple pads of all your fingers around the jug. Different types of crimps, when to crimp, and how to do it! May 1, 2024 · Crimp Climbing 101 covers the essential techniques and training tips for using crimps. It is big and easy to hold. There are probably some tutorials on this board. Because recognizing a hold is only half the battle, the real magic happens when you know how to use it. Crimp holds require strong finger strength and precise technique. The Half Crimp. From body positioning to footwork, master these skills to climb harder routes efficiently. A half crimp is the preferred crimp because it spreads the load more evenly between the tendons and pulleys. The jug is typically the new climber’s favorite hold. Jun 19, 2025 · So you’ve got the lay of the land when it comes to climbing holds—jugs, crimps, slopers, pinches, pockets, underclings, volumes. . Push and Pull: Think of climbing as pushing against holds with your feet and pulling yourself into the wall with your hands. Sep 29, 2024 · Build finger strength and improve your rock climbing skills with this comprehensive guide to fingerboards. Use your toes Using your toes is probably the most basic climbing technique and should be one We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Or you can take me fishing and I'll show you first hand. Feb 7, 2007 · The black double barrel crimp was made for wire, but can also be used for mono or fluorocarbon. Make sure you're covering all these basics each time you hit the wall and start pulling hard. Here are 22 techniques with a brief explanation of what it is, when to do it and how to do it. This is a variant on the regular half-crimp (figure B), where the index finger bends at 90 degrees. 8 / 500lb plus *one point is all 200lb mono do not have the same diameter, for example, 200lb Jinkai mono has 1. If you have no idea what I’m talking about, we have an entire video dedicated to lumbrical injuries. Sep 11, 2023 · Master climbing grips & rock features. Curious about other climbing techniques? Check out some of our other guides: Climbing Technique Toolbox: Heel Hooks Climbing Technique Toolbox: How to Flag Climbing Technique Toolbox: Crimping Climbing Technique Toolbox Apr 4, 2024 · Whether you are a seasoned climber or just starting out, understanding the different types of climbing holds is crucial for improving your skills and technique. Perfect for beginners and seasoned climbers alike! #climbing #bouldering #climbingtiktok”. Climbing holds are the artificial grips that are attached to climbing walls, allowing climbers to navigate and ascend the wall. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced climber looking to improve your crimping skills, there are several strategies you can employ to get better at […] Whether you're a seasoned climber or new to the vertical world, understanding climbing terminology and techniques can enhance your experience and help you connect with the climbing community. Let’s take a look at each one, from the perspective of technique, and with a brief focus on supportive training. Sep 27, 2024 · Learn how to improve your crimping technique, a crucial skill for boulders. Any tips would be amazing. May 21, 2009 · Going to start crimping leaders for July trip, and have never tried it beforewhat size crimps go with what test mono/ fluorocarbon and what size holes on Sep 11, 2017 · Using crimps on heavy leader is a quick way to make a secure connection for offshore fishing. This rule applies to all types of climbing holds: jugs, crimps, pockets, pinches, and slopers. to/3J6fNdD Climbing Shoes: https://amzn. 59 Likes, TikTok video from scfitnessmedia (@scfitnessmedia): “Discover effective crimp techniques that enhance your climbing skills. It will feel week at first, but you will soon be amazed at what you can hold onto without crimping. Mar 13, 2021 · crimp: jinkai g line: 200lb diamond fluorocarbon windon first is a clean single crimp with minimal flare, second is a first crimp closest to the hook and then another overlapped crimp. Oct 28, 2019 · If you are a beginner, be sure to check out the video for the very basic tips for climbing crimps! My Climbing/Workout Gear: https://amzn. Don’t forget to set your drag appropriately , lost a pink Mac 240 this weekend on the bite … Drag was to tight!!! Jul 16, 2025 · Learn about the types of climbing holds and how they differ from one another. I have found that a weakness is my climbing is crimping and body positioning. Jul 16, 2025 · Learn what crimping rock climbing is, how to do it right, little tips and tricks that you never knew about this sport. Key types of crimping, some tips and exercises to increase your finger strength. So, tighten your grip and prepare to scale new heights in the fascinating world of finger strength and crimping in climbing. According to a study that looked at “ biomechanical properties of the crimp grip position,” three times the force applied at the fingertip during a crimp grip position compared to a sloper handhold during a warmup, making you more likely to Mar 27, 2019 · Neil Gresham gets to grips with handholds: Page-one of climbing technique is making the best use of the holds, and this became apparent when we looked at footwork earlier in this series. That said, I noticed that I never really used a proper drag grip when I'm actually climbing; only half crimp and open crimp. Jul 2, 2019 · Helping my friend brian with his project which involves a lot of crimp holds. (Photo: Neil Gresham) Mar 30, 2024 · When crimp climbing, you can use all five fingers, down to just one single finger. Sport Climbing Sport Climbing Techniques and Strategies: This class can be a follow up for our Lead Climbing class, or if you are an exprienced lead climber, this class will hep you improve your skills, and Dec 8, 2024 · Sport climbing is an exhilarating activity that combines strength, strategy, and finesse. If this feels overwhelming, don’t worry. It requires a great deal of finger strength and precision to successfully navigate these small holds. Properly crimped lines will always out test perfect knots. For each hold type, there are different techniques to get the most out of each hold. Great! Now it’s time to level up. Leaving the mono tight around the eye of the hook places tremendous strain on the mono. Learn valuable tips and techniques to avoid injuries while crimping during climbing sessions. Pick out individual areas to focus on and to rotate them regularly. May 21, 2020 · There are many climbing techniques that can be learned and leverage to improve your climbing performance. Get My eBook: The Crux ( My personal memoir on climbing ): https://thecrux. May 3, 2019 · Slopers – gripping technique tips: Look first and then feel to find the best part of the hold. Mar 10, 2024 · Climbing Technique Toolbox: Heel Hooks Climbing Technique Toolbox: How To Flag Climbing Technique Toolbox: How To Mantle 7 Techniques to Improve Your Climbing Sloper Technique When you watch someone climb boulder problems consisting of big rounded holds, it might look like they’re using brute strength to power up the climb. Photo: Beast Fingers Climbing Step 2: Find Your Max Now we’ll find your starting point using the Rate of Perceived Effort (RPE) Scale, with 1-RPE being the easiest and 10-RPE being the hardest. Crimp: Use an open-hand grip (fingers slightly bent) for larger holds to protect your fingers, and save the crimp (bent knuckles) for smaller, more demanding holds. Jun 23, 2009 · When you crimp the sleeve the sleeve will elongate. Jul 7, 2023 · Tried-and-true tips for effective sloper sending, with advice from Meagan Martin. 2 / 80-100lb 1. My thinking is aluminum crimps are better for plastic lines. Most improperly crimped connections will out test knots as well. The elongation has to go somewhere. There is a route that challenges both and I have been able to get it a few times but still struggle. One could even do a swivel at the lure and a palomar knot at the swivel. Aug 13, 2022 · And with a crimp to the line is not restricting the ring. Jan 14, 2025 · Learn a simple, yet effective training method for developing a stronger pinch grip for bouldering and rock climbing. Feb 11, 2025 · Bouldering vocabulary opens up a world of precise movement descriptions and safety communication at the climbing gym. You want to be ready for this when you go climbing for two reasons: first, you’ll be stronger and better adapted to it, and second, it will minimize your risk of injury. We can help you fine tune your movement whether you are just begining or if you have hit a pleateu. That means, this handhold only lets the pads of your fingers support your body weight. It requires climbers to navigate cliff routes using a series of precise techniques and movements. Nov 7, 2024 · Master crimp techniques for V6/6c+ climbs with our expert guidance. Aug 25, 2019 · Ever since about 2-3 years into climbing, the back side of my middle fingers (on both hands) would get aggravated fairly easily when crimping. Crimp Climbing Crimp climbing, also known as “crimping” can be edge handholds large enough for multiple fingers tips or just one or two fingertips. Feb 23, 2024 · This is a mantle! This article will review mantling technique, as it’s an essential thing to have in your climbing arsenal. Protect your tendons and improve your climbing experience! Nov 17, 2023 · Improve your crimping skills in climbing gyms with the right holds. Here’s how you improve it. Are there techniques and strategies for finger positioning and grips that might be specific to people with longer fingers? I'm obviously working to improve finger strength in general, but I also want to maximize my technique at the same time. What is Crimp Climbing? A crimp refers to a small rocky margin that has just enough surface area for the pads of your fingers to rest. Jul 7, 2022 · Slopers may be the most feared hold in climbing. They are characterized by their narrow width and typically have a small edge or lip that climbers can grasp with their fingertips. When crimping, climbers apply maximum force with their fingers, creating a tight grip that allows them to maintain control and stability on challenging routes. Aug 12, 2021 · The biomechanics of crimping—explaining that the reason we feel strong on crimps is directly tied to the mechanics of common crimping injuries (pulley tears). What Is A Crimp? In this informative video, we’ll cover the essential technique known as crimping in the world of bouldering and rock climbing. In the world of climbing, crimping is a technique that can make or break your ascent. Don’t forget to set your drag appropriately , lost a pink Mac 240 this weekend on the bite … Drag was to tight!!! Feb 21, 2022 · Grip Tips The utility grip for campusing is the “chisel” or “campus half-crimp” (figure A), where the index finger holds straight, the middle and ring fingers bend at 90 degrees, and the little finger is straight or very slightly bent. With this approach, not only will you become a much better climber in the long-term, but your sessions will be more fun and varied too. Feb 17, 2025 · Master the art of climbing slopers with these tips! Learn how to improve grip, body positioning, and technique to tackle even the most challenging slopers. Open Hand vs. This position, when used often, has been known to overstress the tendons in the fingers and lead to injuries. Crimping is a technique boulderers use to grip small holds. I feel like the first one is better because it’s one crimp but the second is better because it’s covering more surface and has a better flare. Learn techniques for crimps, slopers, cracks, overhangs, and more to enhance your climbing prowess and efficiency. Curious about other climbing techniques? Check out some of our other guides: Climbing Technique Toolbox: Heel Hooks Climbing Technique Toolbox: How to Flag Climbing Technique Toolbox: Crimping Climbing Technique Toolbox Jan 31, 2022 · But, in my opinion, it’s really important to train the full crimp grip position because a lot of hard moves on rock revolve around crimping really hard on small holds. Whether you're projecting your first V4 or fine-tuning your technique for comp season, this guide walks you through how to Feb 11, 2021 · A non-exhaustive, yet fairly comprehensive guide to climbing technique that tackles dynamic versus static movement May 21, 2009 · Going to start crimping leaders for July trip, and have never tried it beforewhat size crimps go with what test mono/ fluorocarbon and what size holes on Sep 11, 2017 · Using crimps on heavy leader is a quick way to make a secure connection for offshore fishing. Jul 13, 2021 · The complete guide on all things crimps. Learn to make a haywire twist if you want to use the regular single strand wire. More contact = more friction. com The correct grip-type, with good technique and strength, can improve bad holds, increase a climber’s endurance and help you send your project! Have any questions about rock climbing, training or equipment? Ask our friendly and knowledgeable staff at Alpine Indoor Climbing or reach us at @alpineindoorclimbing. However, even the most experienced climbers can fall into the trap of making common mistakes when utilizing this technique. Weight distribution—explaining the physics of flagging and backflagging and why they’re absolutely crucial to climbing technique. I understand training it will probably make me a more well-rounded climber strength-wise, but does anyone have evidence (quantitative or anecdotal) of the benefit of training 3-finger drag? Jun 5, 2019 · If climbing technique is now starting to feel like a giant sieve, then hopefully these articles are doing their job! Don't get overwhelmed. Jul 3, 2022 · What’s an appropriate connection method ? The connection to the lure … barrel swivel … line # test fluorocarbon to lure … Would you use a small aluminum crimp say on 100#-130# test at the lure ? Then use a 3’-4’ section of fluorocarbon with a Apr 20, 2015 · Wondering what knot everyone is using to connect hook to 60lb+ line? Or do people crimp? Whatever knot you choose, learn how to tie it perfectly and have confidence in it. 3 / 400lb plus 2. Closed crimps are preferred over full crimps. You may get away with avoiding the crimp ladders (aka a straightforward Practice climbing open hand. Learn the 3 main types of crimp grips — open May 21, 2009 · Going to start crimping leaders for July trip, and have never tried it beforewhat size crimps go with what test mono/ fluorocarbon and what size holes on Sep 11, 2017 · Using crimps on heavy leader is a quick way to make a secure connection for offshore fishing. Climbing is a sport that demands a nuanced understanding of how to interact with the rock or holds. The pinch-grip Repeater training protocol explained by Coach Hörst involves doing 3 sets of Repeaters. Climbers Jan 4, 2024 · Crimping is the strongest grip in climbing. Feb 7, 2014 · The evidence is in the amount of people that have ruptured their tendons using a closed crimp compared to an open hand. From the three types of crimps, when to use them, and how to improve your crimp strength. " If crimping IS bad technique, and suggestions for exercises that can help me crimp correctly? TL;DR: If crimping is bad technique, how can I get better form? Thanks and sorry for long post! Welcome back to Technique Tuesday! In this episode, we’re breaking down one of the most important — and risky — hold types in climbing: crimps. If you find an in-cut depression then consider crimping it. But with the proper technique and training you needn't worry anymore. 7 / 200lb 2. If you’re good at them, you seek out all the crimp boulders and routes in the gym. Aspects and perspectives on how to move and think about climbing so that you can perform better and progress faster. While there are techniques that apply to specific holds, maximizing contact with the hold will always be the number Jan 5, 2024 · An experienced climber will be able to recognise different bouldering holds and know how best to use them from just looking at the wall. Once you've built up that tendon strength (after years of The crimp applies a lot more force to the hold, you can keep your hips much further into the wall and get far better extension and control in your reach to the next hold. A helpful guide for beginners in rock climbing! Oct 21, 2024 · Basic Movement Techniques of Sport Climbing: A Beginner's Guide Rock climbing is an extreme sport that challenges physical, mental and strategic strength. From basic terms like “crimps” (small finger holds) to advanced beta calls such as “gaston” (an outward-facing grip position), these words form the essential language of climbing. Whether you love or hate climbing crimps, mastering them is key. At the heart of this interaction lies the The most complete list of bouldering and climbing techniques to improve your movement on the wall navigating challenging boulder problems. 0 / 250-300lb 2. to/2tCoPet Nov 8, 2023 · Definition of crimping Crimping is a climbing technique that involves using the fingertips to grasp onto small holds or edges on the rock surface. Creating the dreaded crotch break. But, to be a well-rounded, advanced climber, being good at crimping is critical. We’ll define Crimping is a climbing technique that involves gripping small holds with just your fingertips. Perfect your calisthenics and bouldering skills! #climber #gym #bouldering Jul 7, 2022 · Slopers may be the most feared hold in climbing. And more friction = feeling more secure on the hold. Don’t forget to set your drag appropriately , lost a pink Mac 240 this weekend on the bite … Drag was to tight!!! Sep 24, 2024 · Crimp holds are a staple in climbing, especially when it comes to challenging routes that require finger strength, balance, and precision. 8 / 40-60lb 1. Nov 12, 2016 · CRIMP SLEEVE CHART FOR MONO* & FLUOROCARBON Fishing Line copper / aluminum / brass 0. The proxim does anyone use the old school version of crimping ( hand in the closed position with crossed thumb or are more peaple using the open hand and just hanging the holds I don't see much proper crimping technique anymore Discover effective crimping techniques for bouldering and improve your climbing skills. Discover grip training exercises, setting up your board, climbing techniques, and more! Apr 5, 2009 · Abstract In sport climbing, and particularly in rock climbing, the so-called crimp grip position is the finger position most often used to enable the athlete to hold the smallest ledges. Oct 23, 2024 · Crimps may be the most polarizing climbing hold. 33mm compared to my chart above which notes 200lb is 1. rocke What are crimps? Crimp holds are small, sharp holds that require a lot of finger strength to grip onto. Jan 12, 2022 · New to climbing? Our beginner's guide to climbing moves, holds, & technique provides the information you need to improve today. If not, you stay as far away as possible, marveling at the finger strength of those crimp-loving crazies. Each technique will include a description of the move and the physical requirements to perform each move, with images from Sarah Burkhardt’s photo collection as well as from https://www. I will discuss climbing techniques in future posts. There are three basic types: the open crimp, the full crimp, and the three-finger grip. Capt. The climbing community uses this shared terminology to describe routes, movements, and Aug 15, 2017 · The best grip on a climbing hold is always going to be the grip that maximizes contact with the hold. Technique Climbing is a complex sport that combines strength, technique and balance. Apr 1, 2022 · You can start to introduce full crimping with your resistance band workouts and slowly introduce full crimping to climbing routes More rest is needed during this phase. Enhance your grip strength and technique for new climbing heights. Looking to master the different climbing finger grips and techniques rock climbers use to improve their technique? Here are the top7 techniques and injury preventions. This guide will break down 10 essential moves to elevate your climbing game and provide actionable tips to incorporate them Jun 1, 2021 · It’s like pulling a feather in two different directions. But what exactly are crimp holds, and how can you use them to improve your climbing? Because of this, it’s important to understand the main types of handholds you will use climbing. The aluminum oval crimps are only for Mono or fluorocarbon and shape the plastic line inside the crimp differently. Don’t forget to set your drag appropriately , lost a pink Mac 240 this weekend on the bite … Drag was to tight!!! Apr 22, 2025 · Learn the fundamental indoor climbing techniques that will transform your gym sessions. Armed with the knowledge of how to hold crimps, practice, and finger-strength exercises, you Jan 4, 2024 · In today's Tips & Tricks episode, we are going to look at different types of crimp grips. May 10, 2022 · Who would think that there could be four different ways to perform the simple task of gripping an edge, but that’s climbing for you. This exercise will also strengthen your thumb-lock for “closed crimp” gripping small holds. All three are important in climbing, and if you want to be a good climber, you shouldn't neglect any of them. 5 / 125-150lb 1. Learn about small crimps, incuts, sloping crimps, pocket holds, pinch holds, sloper holds, edge holds, crack holds, screw-on holds, tension board holds, campus board holds, and system board holds. If you're just starting out then yes, you should focus on climbing open handed as much as possible since the connective tissues in your fingers aren't yet strong enough to handle the added stress of harder crimping. This was more apparent in full crimp than half crimp, which is why I avoided full crimp for so long. Below is 14 of the most common climbing holds that you’ll see indoors and outdoors as well as the ideal technique for using them. 7mm - so pay attention to packaging details Nov 18, 2011 · The sleeve you should use for the 50# titanium wire is either a clinch (terminal tackle side) or an albright (leader to mono side). Scott Goodwin offers a tried and true technique. Considering the forces applied to your fingers and tendons, crimp climbing is also seen as a technique that can easily lead to injury if not done properly. Often after I fall off a boulder or a route, I realize that I wasn't crimping as I was trying the final move. Whether you’re a seasoned climber or a beginner looking to improve, mastering proper sport climbing techniques can significantly enhance your performance and enjoyment on the wall. msrvu exsuf zojl qtv tttwm vfjk ycekpkzt irez waiflp fdjwa